Locksmith in GoodwoodStraight talkabout what's on your door

Drilling is the last rung, reached only when the cylinder has genuinely stopped cooperating. Typical reasons are a plug seized by corrosion or a failed spring, a key snapped deep inside that blocks the pins, a high-security cylinder whose anti-pick features make picking impractical, or a lock already damaged by someone's earlier attempt. The decision is explained before the drill comes out, the hole is confined to the cylinder, and replacement hardware goes in straight afterwards.

It can be. A cylinder that is worn, a strike plate that has shifted, or a latch that no longer seats squarely will all produce repeat lockouts even though the key looks fine. The locksmith checks the alignment of the door and frame, tests how smoothly the latch throws, and looks at wear inside the cylinder before simply letting you back in. If the hardware is the cause, fixing that during the same visit is usually quicker than calling again next month.

Yes. Small cylinders in padlocks, mailboxes, desk drawers, filing cabinets and cam locks on lockers hold a fragment the same way a door does, and the same slim hooks and spirals fit them. Their keyways are narrower, so it is finer work. Where a padlock is not worth saving, the locksmith will say so and offer a cut-off and a new padlock keyed to your preference instead.

Whether the police have been called and any occurrence number; whether everyone is safe and the property is empty of intruders; which opening was forced and whether it closes at all; whether the damage is to the lock, the frame, the door or the glass; whether keys, remotes or codes were taken; whether you own, rent or manage the property; and whether there is glass beside the door. Photos on your phone help the locksmith bring the right hardware.